It is still dark when we set out for Flores de los Andes, a lapis lazuli mine 4,200 metres up the mountains of Ovalle, central Chile. It is only accessible when the snow melts between February and April. The boys are wrapped in blankets in the back of a 4x4. Juan, a short, stout, weathered-faced miner, is with us. He speaks no English, I speak no Spanish. We communicate with hand movements.
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