It is dark and cold as we drive in the pre-dawn light towards the great mound of rock that lies like some sleeping giant in the middle of Australia’s red-hearted desert. We can see it silhouetted against the blue-black sky, a dark hump blocking out the stars and the sinking full moon. We follow the road around to the north side, park the car, and follow the dust track through the spinifex grasses to where we will wait for the sun to rise against Uluru.
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