What is Pyongyang really like? What tourists see and hear on a trip to the North Korean capital

As I boarded Air Koryo’s dated Antonov An-148 plane, there was a tangible mixture of excitement and apprehension in the air. I was on my way to compete in the Pyongyang Marathon; due to the demand from Shanghai expatriates, my tour operator, Uri Tours, had chartered return flights from our booming metropolis to the Hermit Kingdom.

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