When we left Patna, fires were burning on the shore. As Rajmahal nudged upriver towards the sunset, it became obvious that these were cremations, four of them on the Pathri, Roshan and Gulabi Ghats, their flames matching the redness of the descending sun. No one on the shore seemed to mind the looming presence of our 40-berth river cruiser, but this was the last time before Varanasi that we weren't the focus of huge attention.
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