My room overlooked the swimming pool. It was early evening and a DJ was playing some thumping house music. The phone rang. It was Ian Schrager calling from New York. But in a way it was also Ian Schrager by the swimming pool. I was staying in Abu Dhabi's most monumental hotel, the Kempinski Emirates Palace. In 2014, it seems quite normal that a state-owned Arabic hotel run by a conservative German hotel chain should have a DJ playing house music by the pool, but it wasn't always thus. The idea of hotel-as-club, as curator of chill, jazz, dub and funk – that's a boutique hotel thing, and thus a Schrager thing.
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