Traffic rumbles unhurriedly past Bulentin Yeri, a traditional roadside pancake house in southwest Turkey's Kaya Valley. The wall bordering the road is topped with a jaunty parade of rusting corn-oil tubs stuffed with traffic-light chilli peppers and pink trumpets of hibiscus. Bulent's family has run this small restaurant for 18 years, and the head-scarfed lady sitting cross-legged in front of the open fire, pouring ladlefuls of batter on to an iron griddle, is his mother. Locals are socialising around low tables, and snacking on katmer pancakes – a speciality of the house, spread with a concoction of sugar and sesame paste.
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