The corridor, gently lit with modern downlighters, is flanked by stark white baths, a reminder of this smart new spa’s not-so-distant past as the Soviet Mud Baths. After years of dereliction, the baths, behind their stately pre-Soviet Neoclassical façade, have been restored and re-invented as the Hedon Spa and Hotel, an indulgent retreat for 21st-century Estonia.
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