"Out with the truckers, and the kickers, and the cowboy angels. And a good saloon in every single town." The lilting lyrics of Gram Parsons' country rock anthem, "Return of the Grievous Angel", are bouncing through my brain. On the drive from Los Angeles to the tiny desert town of Joshua Tree, I'd had the song on constant repeat. Now I'm perched on a bar stool at The Joshua Tree Saloon, a Lynyrd Skynyrd-style drinking hole where "truckers" may be thin on the ground, but "cowboy angels" - with scuffed boots and ten-gallon hats - are still very much in evidence.
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