Balanced on a wobbly wooden stool on a pavement in Santiago's bohemian Bellavista district, I sip a murky pisco sour served in a plastic champagne flute. At this early hour on a Saturday morning the streets are packed with young Chileans enjoying some downtime. I think we're in a grungy bar called Camino al Cerro on Pío Nono (00 56 2 2732 6118), but really there's no way of telling one graffitied drinking den from another, apart from their aptitude for mixing a pisco sour, that is.
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