The late, great travel writer Eric Newby described the smell of the English sea as so strong it was "like a biff on the nose". This describes perfectly how it hits me as I walk towards Start Point lighthouse in south Devon. There's an easterly wind funnelling across Start Bay, a force six, gusting force eight. The waves pummel the coast, churning up brown sand; a little further out the water is a metallic blue, raked with sea spray.
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