'And for us," declares Marcello, "the war begins." I'm on a multi-day guided Great War Ski Tour, where trivial laments of the modern-day skier – lift queues, runny noses, sore legs – take a back seat. One hundred years ago a very real war was waged here after Italy joined the Allies in April 1915 and declared war on Austria-Hungary a month later. Austro-Hungarian and Italian troops battled in places now famous for fur shops and cappuccino stops – Cortina, Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Marmolada, Sella, Lagazuoi, Tofane, Cinque Torri. From 1915 to 1917, the ski slopes of the Dolomites were on the war's frontline.
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