I'm deep in border country, the western edge of Shropshire, and of England, teetering on the lip of an empty quarter of Wales, the back of beyond if you like. I drive through the singular town of Bishop's Castle on my journey from Shrewsbury, but I have a few miles yet to travel. My destination is Clun, tucked away in the hills to the south and west. Beyond the back of beyond. There's a 14th-century packhorse bridge, a 2,000-year-old yew in the churchyard where the actor John Osborne is buried, and the vibrant Sun Inn dates to the 16th century.
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