I'm leaning against the bar at El Cangrejero, an out-of-the-way joint in Madrid's artsy Malasaña neighbourhood, trying to get the attention of Angel, otherwise known as "The Grumpiest Barman in the World". After much gesturing, he slaps down two cañas in front of me – the miniature Madrileño measure of beer – sending the contents flying. To the uninitiated, this whole experience might be intimidating, but luckily, I have Jacobo, a Madrid native and an aspiring tour guide.
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