This doesn't seem to be a place wracked by decay. It is just after one o'clock on the rear terrace of the Restaurante La Concepción, and the young women at the next table are laughing through one of those lunches that seem destined to ebb into dinnertime, their heads only marginally obscuring the view of the twinkling waters in the harbour below. As they clink their wine glasses, the head waiter approaches me from the right. He smiles politely as he places the day's special – a deep-sea grouper risotto with blueberry sauce – on to the table, and leaves me to the vista.
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