It is from a vast cauldron on a Koh Samui side street, between a souvenir emporium crawling with little wooden elephants and a live band belting out Rolling Stones hits in Thai, that I finally find my own perfect gaeng keow wan gai. I've had some excellent green chicken curries in Thailand – some rich and sweet with coconut cream; others fragrant with holy basil – but this one, slopped into a bowl by a team of sturdy women and served with a splintery wooden fork, is the one that blows my mind.
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