On the road up the Tux valley, in the Tyrol region of Austria, the hotels were shuttered and the ski rental shops dark. Only at the very top, in Hintertux, where the road ends in a large car park, were there signs of life: some flickering neon above a ski shop, a cable-car in motion, and a cosmopolitan group of skiers with – to judge from the car registration plates – Russians and Poles among them.
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