Monday, November 24, 2014

North Korea Tourism Is Ethical and Important

2014-11-23-KISGate.jpg Source: Uri Tours, Inc. Used with permission.



North Korea is a country of nearly 25 million people. According to research from leading North Korea experts, four- to five million of these are middle class North Koreans, with disposable income, who like to go on dinner dates at local restaurants, or watch movies, or save up for a new home appliance. These aren't just a cadre of 10,000 or so elites. These are normal North Koreans seeking to live enjoyable lives with their friends and families.



Working for a North Korea travel company (New Jersey-based Uri Tours), one of the questions I am presented with most frequently is how can I lead vacations to a country whose government has the reputation it does in the West? My answer is simple: it does a great disservice to ordinary North Korean people to make no distinction between them and their government. I traveled extensively throughout Europe during the Bush years, and I fast grew weary of having to remind Europeans that I was not my government. I resented not being seen as an individual simply seeking to explore Europe, see its history, and make new friends.



The same goes for North Koreans. Yes, the impulse to discuss politics and government with North Korean citizens is certainly there (and is understandable). But in Europe, my favorite conversations to have (and the ones that resulted in lasting friendships) were discussions about my family life, or what I do for fun back home, or about what music I like, or what my favorite foods were, not about President Bush, his policies, or my opinions of them.



Did you know that rollerblading is big in North Korea? Or that schoolchildren compete in youth basketball leagues? New, colorful fashions are all the rage right now, and cell phones and even domestically-made tablets are flying off the shelves. And not just in the capital city Pyongyang. In other cities, like Wonsan, Kaesong, Chongjin, and Sinuiju, a burgeoning consumer society is really taking root in a meaningful way. This growing middle class benefits tremendously from the income and cultural cross-pollination that Western tourists provide.



Speaking of income, tourism revenue is relatively small in North Korea. The funds tourists spend to visit the country are used to pay for the upkeep of the hotels and restaurants they visit, and to pay the salaries of the drivers and guides that tour companies employ. A common perception in the West is that tourism revenue props up unfavorable parts of the government's practices, however our experience indicates that tourism revenue has a much greater impact on supporting and empowering local economies than being applied to negative political purposes.



Another common question I hear is "aren't the tours strictly controlled, with limited access to actual North Korean citizens?" This question is based on popular stories from prior visitors but paint an incomplete picture. Our CEO, Andrea Lee, once explained to some North Korean children that she was Korean but lived in America. Amusingly they responded by asking "but don't they kill you there?" Andrea told them no, and that, in fact, many Koreans live in the United States. She explained that she went to school in America and has family and friends there. Though a small example, interactions like these are commonplace for tourists who visit, and these conversations help to build friendship and understanding. Perhaps those North Korean children will now grow up hating America just a little bit less, and wondering a little bit more about just what life is like over here.



2014-11-23-Beachparty.jpg Nampho beach party. Source: Uri Tours, Inc. Used with permission.



Tours present several opportunities like this to meet North Koreans in their natural settings, in Pyongyang and beyond. Bike treks let guests cycle through the countryside of Chonnae County and the streets near Nampho. Our foreign guests have visited the homes of North Korean families, ran in the Pyongyang Marathon with thousands of locals cheering them on and extending high-fives, played beach volleyball with North Koreans in Wonsan, and spoken with university students in the capital. One of our guests went on a private tour of Nampho when he heard music in the distance. Though not part of his tour schedule, he strolled down to check it out and found a bunch of locals throwing a raging beach party.



Whenever you travel to any foreign country, it is inevitable to see and be exposed to that country's local population, no matter how strictly controlled the environment. Visitors certainly will leave an impact, as they are some of the few foreigners North Koreans will ever get to interact with.



The assumption that all North Korean citizens are inseparable from their government is understandable considering everything we hear about the country in Western media. But North Koreans are human, just like us, and like to have fun, be social, and possess a powerful curiosity. There is real culture there, separate from the state, and it merits exploration and understanding.



James Carli is a writer and representative for Uri Tours, Inc.



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