'Naples is like Rio de Janeiro. It's like Caracas. You get the best and the worst. There's no in between." I am sitting in 50 Kalo, a new pizzeria in the heart of the well-heeled Chiaia neighbourhood, with Maurizio Cortese, the effusive local consultant who helped open the restaurant. It's Thursday night and there is a queue of young Neapolitans outside. It's not bad for somewhere that only opened in February, especially considering the fierce competition it faces. After all, this is a city that protects its most famous export via an association that certifies the genuine article. Look out for Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana signs outside pizzerias – 50 Kalo is one of them.
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