It's not your usual complement of gondola- hailing tourists that board Vaporetto No 20 from San Zaccaria, at 3.10pm. Most are Italian, with a smattering of American art historians and visitors of a more Levantine countenance. All exude an air of gravitas. Some disembark at the university island of San Servolo, leaving a small phalanx to continue to journey's end: the Armenian monastery island of San Lazzaro.
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